Fusible interlinings British Standard BS4973: Part 2 (1973) and Part 3 (1976) specifies the test methods and minimum requirements for woven fusible interlinings for use in public sectors. In this standard, mass, bursting strength, flexibility and durability, and dimensional change on cold water immersion are specified for dimensional change on cold water immersion and minimum tensile strength in warp direction are specified for woven fusible interlinings. In addition to what has been specified in BS 4973, heat shrinkage and dry-cleaning shrinkage of fusible interlinings are considered as important. The heat shrinkage of fusible interlinings can be tested in the factory environment by either of the following methods:

a.      Place a swatch of fusible interlining on a sheet of silicone paper, and then put them through the fusing press. Measure the dimensional change of the fusible interlining after putting through the fusing process and conditioning.

b.      Place two swatches of fusible interlinings against each other with the adhesive side in the middle, and then put them through the fusing press. Measure the dimensional change of the fusible interlinings after putting through the fusing process and conditioning.

Dimensional stability of fusible interlining to dry-cleaning can be tested according to the procedures specified in ISO3175-1995 (E) or British Standard BS4961. The coated side of the fusible interlining should be covered by a light weight fabric during testing. Generally speaking (as a rule of thumb), to prevent rippling and delamination of fused garment parts, the difference between the shrinkage of the fabric and the fusible interlining tested by the same method should not exceed 2 %.

The handle of the fusible interlining is also very important. The handle of different fusible interlinings may be compared based on the objective measurement of their low-stress mechanical properties using the KESF or FAST system. The optimum ranges of mechanical properties of fusible interlinings, which are related to handle, for summer and winter men’s suits were suggested.

Linings

Linings should conform to some minimum requirements and be suitable for different applications. The minimum requirements for woven and warp knitted fabrics for linings in uniform clothing are specified in British Standard BS4560 (1990). Minimum requirements of fabrics mass, density, dimensional stability and colour fastness are specified for lining fabric made of different fibres and constructions.