Tips to prevent fusing failure Keep your test fusing samples, they are a great reference for future sewing projects. Select fusible interfacing by weight of fashion fabric, the amount of structure the style of garment requires and consider the way the garment will be cleaned. Interfacing is an inner layer to support areas of the garment and the weight and drape must be compatible with the fashion fabric, select the same weight or lighter. Fold fabric after test fusing. If a sharp fold forms a crease in the fashion fabric, try a lighter interfacing. Fabric fused with interfacing needs to be flexible supple and recover from creases.
The ironing board needs to be in the correct position if too high, you cannot apply enough pressure. Some domestic presses do not have enough pressure to fuse manufacturers interfacings. When fusing garment pieces begin pressing in the centre of each piece and overlap the area you previously pressed. Heavier fabric and fusible interfacing may take a little longer than 10 seconds to fuse. Always remember if fabric has movement choose an interfacing with stretch to avoid separation and bubbling. Choose the most appropriate colour interfacing as this may change fashion fabric colour. A variety of colours are available white, cream, grey beige, black charcoal and skin tone. Consider the density of cloth a soft, light interfacing fused all over can give depth of colour so that construction seams and inside details are not visible improving the finished appearance. Interfacing the top layer of garment fabric for example an upper collar or an outer cuff of a blouse, to prevent the seam allowances shadowing on the right side. If your fabric is soft or loosely woven to prevent the movement during cutting block fuse and cut the pattern section after fusing.
If fusing afterwards check the grain has not been distorted by placing pattern over garment piece, realign take away pattern and fuse interfacing into position. To apply fusible interfacing to area’s such as pockets and hemlines fuse over a tailors ham, this produces curves that follow body shape. Patch pockets that are interfaced with fusibles keep the shape the fabric is less likely to distort and stretch. Seam allowances on heavy fusible interfacings can be cut off before fusing to reduce bulk, this is not necessary on fine fusibles. Small pieces of woven fusible interfacings can be used to stabilise weak areas for example top of skirt vent opening. To strength and support pocket areas. Woven fusible interfacing cut into strips and fused to the garment can be used for stabilising roll lines of jackets, or to prevent V-neck lines from stretching. Fusible interfacings provide a firm surface to top stitch, it will help eliminate puckers or drags caused by the movement of layers of fabric.